The picture perfect seaside town of Sciacca is southwest along the Mediterranean coast. Part of the province of Agrigento, it has a population of 40,900 and is 386m above sea level. Sciacca was discovered in 5th century by the Greeks who used it as a thermal resort due to its rich sulpherous springs, for their nearby city of Selinunte. Sciacca developed to become more powerful and important when it was ruled by the Romans in the middle ages, then lots of invasions happened in the Byzantine period that weakened the town. The town gained its success back in the 9th Century under the rule of the Saracens. Built on a beautiful cliffside, the town starts at the port, climbs up the cliffs and then comes to a plateau where the main town has kept its medieval layout and is divided into quarters. Sciacca is a walled town with it's original 14th Century walls, that were reinforced in the 16th century and there are still three original gateways into town.
When we arrived in Sciacca we felt inspired and excited. This town is full of life with an Arabic flavour. It is alive with the buzzing sounds of scooters, ambling holiday makers and workers going about their daily lives. Sciacca isn’t too dominated by tourists so it’s easy to observe and immerse yourself into local life. The cost of living is relatively low however many Saccanese rent property as the cost of buying is very high. The activity in the town matched with the breathtaking views of the ocean make you feel excited and relaxed simultaneously. The town is picturesque and charming and the old buildings have an immediate impact with their grand architecture and stunning courtyards. Eager to see the ocean we headed straight for the Piazza Scandaliato, the spacious promenade which has an incredible view of port. The piazza has a lovely atmosphere in the summer, where people meet up for a chat and an ice cream and take in the view.
We found our best ice cream in Sciacca to be in Cafe Terreza on Piazza Scandaliato. We were spoilt for choice with the delicious selection of flavours including pistachio (an Italian favourite), nutella stracciatella, strawberries and cream, and tiramisu. Gorging on our choice of 3 flavours we sat at one of the tables with prime position to watch the fishing boats come into the port. Sciacca is a key port for seafood in Italy and fishing is the largest contributor to economy of the town. Keen to sample some of the local produce, we rushed down to meet the fishing boats, marvelling at all the spectacular colours of the houses built into the cliffs. We got to the boats in time to see the fisherman lifting the weird and wonderful produce onto land. The haggling for the fish began and joining in we emerged with a 20kg box of prawns! We quickly learnt that it tends to be restaurant chefs and the market traders who buy their seafood on mass at the port. The best place to buy fewer numbers are at the market stalls and many fishmongers in town, There is an amazing assortment to choose from and it’s a great deal cheaper than any seafood we have bought on the island.
Sciacca has a long history of being a spa town with thermal baths that have been healing medical conditions for centuries. People flock to the town to be healed by the famous mud rich in minerals and the sulphurous vapours in the water. Terme di Sciacca is one of the most well known spas in Sciacca. It is a beautiful rose coloured building with stunning grounds and a vast array of treatments. For those who want to experience the famous waters of Sciacca for free the Molinelli Pool is an open air natural pool with sulphurous water that can be used by public in the summer months.
This big town has an eclectic range of shops, most are situated in its centre and it's a creative hub with many fascinating antiques and artist studios. It is famous for its ceramics and there are shops on every street, boasting a variety of ceramic plates and crockery. All of these are decorated in the colourful, bold Sicilian style. The beautiful Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle is the main street for shopping with a tempting range of designer and high street stores and many excellent shoe boutiques. The town centre is so charming and accessible that it’s easy to spend hours walking through the quaint streets, gorgeous palazzos and courtyards, popping into stores that take your fancy and then taking a break for a relaxing coffee or glass of wine. Another place for shopping in town are the markets which take place on a Saturday in a place called San Michelle. There are plenty of delicious local products to buy, olives, cheeses and fish to name a few, along with any household item you need. There is a big clothes and shoes market where you can haggle for great bargains.
We were pleased to see that Sciacca has a great range of restaurants and we fell upon these by simply strolling around the centre soaking up the atmosphere. Sciacca has everything from the trattorias in the old part of town that serve traditional pizza, pasta and set menus to modern mediterranean cuisine and of course fantastic seafood restaurants. Many of the more expensive seafood restaurants are based at the port with tourist prices but we have experienced better dishes in town that are great value for money. Delightful cafes are placed on every street corner, perfect for people watching in the summer and the hotels are plentiful, ranging from simple no frills 2 star apartments to boutique 4 star hotels. There is also a campsite on the beach with a few apartments that are also available for rent. There is also the luxurious new Vedura Golf Resort that has magnificent rooms set in beautiful olive and almond groves, only 15 minutes from Sciacca. Being coastal the town has many impressive beaches and some of the whitest in Sicily, particularly San Marco and Contrada Sobareto, which are untouched and not too over crowded in the summer months.
Sciacca is a very colourful town which has many festivals throughout the year, that they celebrate with plenty of food, music, parades and dancing. Their ultimate one is the Carnival of Sciacca also known as Mardi Gras. This carnival is one of the oldest in Italy and remains as one of the most popular. It takes place in the middle of February and beginning of May and no expense is spared for this extravagant street party. There is a marvellous parade of giant colourful characters on floats which represent well-known politicians and celebrities in Italy. These papier mache characters are bigger than the buildings as they take part in the procession and crowds block the streets to watch. There is a wonderful sense of excitement, fun and celebration and these parades occur daily over the six day festival.
Sciacca is a firm favourite of the places we have experienced so far in Sicily and it has plenty to offer with being too touristy. Please see below for some of our favourite Sciacca sights to see.
Translated to Italian as the enchanted castle, this incredible place is at the slope of Monte Kronio, a short drive from Sciacca. The eerie and memorable park is definitely a sight to see. Amongst almond and olive groves remain numerous haunting heads engraved in stone by a local artist Fillipo Bentivengna. Story has it that they represent the enemies of the artist who grew very bitter by his life experiences.
Palazzo Steripinto
This really is unique and is a striking example of 16th Century Catalonian-Sicilian Gothic architecture with twin mullioned windows.
The Gates of Sciacca
These three historical gateways which enable access into the walled town are very impressive to see. The majestic Palermo Gate is the most well known, housing a large baroque style eagle which sits on the top of the columns. Then there is the equally dramatic San Salvatore Gate that has access for the Piazza Carmine with its beautiful renaissance structures and the more simple but still powerful San Calogero Gate.
Chiesa di Santa Margherita
This 14th century church has a gothic portal that is truely breathtaking.
Chiesa del Carmine
This church is certainly worth having a look at especially it's special features of the 13th Century Carmine Church green tiled dome and it's rose window.
Piazza Scandaliato
The wonderful piazza has stunning sea views and cafes for you to relax and admire the view.
Chiesa di San Domenico
The lovely and powerful 16th Century is perfectly positioned to overlook Piazza Scandaliato.
Chiesa Madre
This stunning style baroque cathedral was commissioned in 1108 by Countess Guilietta for her daughter and was dedicated to Mary Magdalene. This impressive catherdral is framed with palm trees and overlooks a wonderful piazza.
So on Saturday we took a trip to Sciacca, which is about 35 minutes from Cianciana. The day started off with a pleasant walk around the town visiting some of the better known sites including a few of the churches and the Basilica or “Chiesa Madre” , Chiesa Carmine with the impressive tiled dome and Palazzo Steripinto with its fort-like walls. Then we went to get a late afternoon drink at one of our favourite bars La Skalunata where the serve a reasonable pint of draught Guinness. Refreshed and rested we set off to do a bit of shopping around Sciacca’s central shopping area which is very quaint and has a lovely atmosphere, even though we live here in Sicily this stroll felt a lot like being on holiday. New socks and jeans in hand we headed to find somewhere to eat and having spotted a little eatery down a beautifully lit alleyway we thought we would give it a try.
Osteria Cappellino on Viccolo Cappelino turned out to be a real hidden gem. In this family run typical trattoria you are greeted by Salvino who will inform you of the select quasi fixed menu which varied depending upon the catches of the day from the port. Salvino’s mum, wife, sister and son; work away with skill and care in the small kitchen to prepare what we experienced to be an exceptional meal. In the intimate and interesting surroundings of our new favourite restaurant in Sciacca we enjoyed a range of local antipasti, some perfectly cooked pasta and as a main shared a huge and delicious Sea Bass, prepared with a light tomato and onion salsa. Great day, great place, great food what more could you ask for?
Trattoria - Osteria Cappellino - Vicolo Cappelino, 24, 92012, Sciacca Tel: 0039 347 843 6140
Restaurant - Hosteria Vicolo - Vicolo Sammaritano, 10, 92012, Sciacca Tel: 0039 0925 23071
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